Brian and Marisa Bargsten: Safari

After arriving at at the Peace House from Nairobi we had full day to do some laundry and check email before we headed out on safari the next morning. We had booked a 4 day, 3 night camping safari with Destination Tanzania (aka, Detasa), the same company that was going to run the Peace House climb on Kili.

We didn't know exactly what time they were coming to pick us up, but our itin said "very early". To us, that means 6am, but we added an hour since "TIA" (i.e., "this is africa", an often said and felt sentiment). We were waiting at the front gate at 7am. 8am, 9am, finally around 9:30am they rolled in. Needless to say we were a bit irritated, but happy to be on our way.

Our driver and guide was Sudi and our cook (remember we are camping) was Frank, who also was going to be one of our guides on the Kili climb. Sudi was driving a pretty new Toyota Land Cruiser which is now the vehical of choice for safaris, instead of the Land Rover Defender. Sudi said the Land Cruiser is more comfortable, but not as capable as the Defender. Regardless we were happy to have the vehicle to ourselves as it would allow us better views. And like all safari vehicles ours had a pop up roof so you could stand up and look out the top. It's like having a giant moonroof.

On our way to the Serengetti we made a couple of stops to pick up some fruit and charcoal. Bananas, mangos, pineapple, papaya, etc. The fruit here is so good and so cheap. After about three hours of driving on a lovely tarmac road (even had painted lines, a real treat in Africa) we had arrived at the gate to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. This is where the road turns to "safari road". We drove up a long winding dirt road for about and hour. Finally we came to an overlook where we could see into the Ngorongoro crater. I am sure you have seen a picture or two of this place. In person though it's quite a marval. It reminded me of Hawaii with the lush, steep hill sides. We then keep driving to get to the Serengetti, but would be back in a few days to visit the Ngorongoro crater floor.

After another hour of driving we began to decend. Then as if someone had taken a giant rolling pin and flatten out Africa, the Serengetti streched out in front of us. We could see for what seemed like, and probably was, a hundred miles or more. Serengetti means "endless plain" in swahili. A very fitting name.

After passing throught the gate into the Serengetti we stopped to check out some wildlife another group was looking at. Turns out they has spotted a cheetah eating something in the distance. After about 30 minutes of looking at ears and a tail in the binoculars the cheetah got up and started walking. Came within about 30 feet of us. He then vanished in the grass. It's amazing how hard it can be to see some animals in the grass here. Good reason not to get our of the vehicle as you never know what may be lurking a few feet away.

About and hour later we had arrived at our campsite for the next two days. Frank helped us set-up our 6 person tent and queen size aerobed they had brought for us. We had elected to camp as it is a lot cheaper than the very expensive lodges and in many ways is a much more intimate experience than being "protected" by the walls of a lodge at night. And given how nice the campsite, equipment and food were we made the right decision.

That said this is the middle of the Serengetti and the camp isn't fenced and there are no guards at night. We had read in a guide book that the Serona campsite we were staying in was well know for noturnal lion visits. The lions didn't disappoint. The first night went by with just a few hyenas making there woop-woop noises in the distance. But around 2am on the second night Marisa woke-up to the very distinctive sound of lions. She laid there terrified not wanting to even wake me for fear that "they might hear her". Finally I woke-up to the low, throaty calls of lions patroling at night. They sounded so close. Somehow we fell asleep and were very happy to see the morning sun. Turns out the guides thought the lions were about 100 meters from camp or less.

After two days of driving around the Serengetti we had seen just about all we had hope to see, including...3 cheetahs, a leopord walking during the day (very rare), elephants, hippos, lions, buffalo, warthogs, jackels, gazelles, zebra, wilderbests, giraffes, and more birds that you can imagine (Uncle Dale, you and Beth must visit Africa).

It's now been about 3 weeks since we were on the Serengetti and the experience is sinking in, finally. When you are there the amount of wildlife is so abundant you almost start to take it for granted. Oh, it's another giraffe, or zebra, or hippo. It's a strange feeling and you have to check yourself every now and then.

While the Tanzanian government has really jacked up prices for entrance into the parks there is no denying how special a place the Serengetti really is. We had thought about skipping it for a park that is cheaper and closer, but I am very glad we didn't.

On the second day when we pulled to the top of a small hill without another soul in sight, and the land was littered with thousands of animals as far as you could see in every direction, that was the moment it hit me. The Serengetti isn't about seeing one certain animal, it's not about getting the perfect picture. The Serengetti's magic is when you see it as a whole, in it's incredible mass of ever-changing life. It makes you feel small and insignificant the way very few places can.

In many ways, Ngorongoro it the ying to the Serengetti's yang. Ngorongoro is relatively tiny and it's wildlife is dense and unchanging. If you only have one day, you come to Ngorongoro.

After camping on the crater rim, we spent our last day in Ngorongoro crater and were treated to a great display in the hippo pool and got to see a lion stalking, but not catching, a herd of zebra at a watering hole.

Overall we had a great time on safari and saw a ton of wildlife. Here are some of the photos...