Nepal Part 3 - Gokyo Trek - By Brian

Going into our RTW trip we had discussed what we were going to do in Nepal several times. We both thought the idea of trekking to Everest base camp sounded really good. But, each time we talked about it we thought it would be too expensive and take too much time. Well after arriving in Nepal and finishing our trek in the Annapura region we started talking about Everest again. We had learned, contrary to prior wisdom, that you don't need a guide to trek in Nepal. You don't need tents and you don't need porters. And frankly, you really don't even need a map.

So we now knew that we could afford the trek to Everest, but we didn't want to cut out any future part of our trip such that we could make it back home on time. At the same time we were thinking it would be nice to spend some more time in SE Asia. After a couple of days of deliberation while visiting temples in and around Kathmandu we pulled the trigger and blew off the old itinerary. Now all we needed to do was...push out our departure from Kathmandu, buy plane tickets to Lukla (the start of the trek), get our Nepal visas extended, pick-up some down coats (we sent ours home after Kili), and hope our parents are keen to keep the critters for another month! Easy.

Oh, and I should mention that we elected not to trek to Everest base camp. There are two treks that get you views of Everest and the surrounding mountains: Everest base camp and Gokyo. The former is more well known, and had we not been in Nepal and talked to many guides on our Annapurna trek, that would have been the one we'd have done. The problem with base camp is there is no view of Everest. Basically you go there to say you have been there, unless you actually have a desire to see it. There is, however, a great view point above base camp called Kala Patthar. This peak offers the best views of Everest, but not much else. Gokyo, on the other hand, is a small village nestled on the shore of a lake one valley to the west of base camp. There is a view point called Gokyo Ri high above the village that offers a great view of Everest, but also offers a 360 degree panoramic of the Himalaya and four 8000 meter peaks. Every guide we talked to said Gokyo was the better trek. So, that's what we elected to do.

Our trek started with an early morning flight to Lukla, a 7 day hike from Gokyo. Lukla is a small village that has the only airport in the Everest region. It's a 7 day hike to Lukla from the nearest road. Since it's at 2800 meters the weather can be fickle. As such flights get canceled all the time, and we had heard that not a single flight went out the prior day. So, as we waited in the packed terminal we were hoping for the best. While we were waiting we met an Australian couple that would figure prominently into the rest of our trek. Finally we got the call and headed out to the tarmac to board the 18 seat prop plane.

Now, just because we're on the plane doesn't mean we are going to get to Lukla. The planes often leave from Kathmandu only to be waved off when they get to Lukla; the weather there can change dramatically during the course of the 30 min flight. For those of you that might have landed in complete fog at your local international airport, I can assure you, you want 100% visibility when you come into Lukla.

We took off, with a clear view out the front of the plane (no cockpit door on this sucker). We cruised along for about 20 min before the mountains started coming up on both sides of the plane. As we flew through the valley up to Lukla we started to get bumped around a bit. Then bumped around a lot. Finally we started to descend. Out the front of the front of the plane I could see the runway...a short strip of tarmac running up hill from about a thousand foot cliff. To say this landing leaves little room of error is a huge understatement. As we came in it looked as though we were going to smash right into the ground. Then just before the runway filled up the whole front window the pilot brought up the nose, cut the power and plopped that tin can down. We rolled uphill to the small loading area at the end of the runway and hopped out of the plane. After we gathered our bags we set off down the trail.

As I mentioned, Lukla is about a 7 day hike from the closest road. Therefore, everything in the town and everything beyond was brought in by human or yak. And I mean everything: food, beer, TVs, beds, dishes, lumber, toilets, etc. It's really pretty amazing, but that's how these people have lived for hundreds of years. And when I say these people, I am speaking of the Sherpa people, who are native to the Everest region. When you hear the term Sherpa used to refer to a porter, it's a lot like the how all cotton swaps or face tissue are called Q-tips or Kleenex.

As we set off down the trail I elected to play the roll of porter. Marisa had hurt her ankle on the Annapurna trek and it was better she didn't carry any weight. We had put all our gear in my backpack and I didn't think it was all that heavy. Plus we'd save $10 per day versus hiring a porter. Mostly though I thought I was tough enough. Nope.

After two days of hiking with all our gear and a stomach bug I picked up in Kathmandu, I finally pulled the plug and we hired a porter for the rest of the trip. That left me with only the stomach bug to deal with. Thankfully we ran into the Australian couple again and they fixed up me and Marisa (who had somehow contracted the bug too) with some Cipro. Lifesavers! In addition to dealing us dope, Adam and Keira followed us (or we followed them) for the next six days. We had a great time with them. So much so that their guide seemed to adopt us as his step clients.

Each day on the trail kept bringing new and more fantastic views. And each day brought cooler temps. During the day it could be quite warm if the sun was out, or it could be raining, foggy, snowing or anything in between...we had it all. At night, the temps were always below freezing; and the higher we went the colder it got. The only bummer about the cold was the lack of heat. There was no heat in the bedrooms, halls, bathrooms, etc. There was, however, heat in the lodge dining room(s) at night. This heat came compliments of yak shit. Since much of the area is above tree line, yaks save the day, or night as it were.

After seven days of hiking we finally made it to our destination, Gokyo. Gokyo is positioned on a large lake surrounded by towering jagged snow covered peaks. The following morning we got up at 5am to hike the final 600 meters up to Gokyo Ri. At 5360 meters (17,585 feet) Gokyo Ri isn't as high as Kilimanjaro, but it's a hell of a lot steeper. After a couple of hours laboring up to the top, despite the clouds threatening to shut out the view, we made the summit and were greeted with spectacular views in every direction. We stayed up there for about an hour and the views kept getting better. When we left we had perfect views of all four 8000 meter peaks, the massive glacier down below and everything in between. Epic in every way.

Sadly we had to come down from Gokyo and make our way back down to Lukla over the next three days. Everything went to plan, including our flight which took off on time. The flight out of Lukla was even better than the flight in. After unloading and reloading the plane in about 10 min the pilots taxied out to the top of the runway/hill. They powered the props all the way up and then let off the brakes. The plane rolled down the hill and just before the runway dropped off the cliff you take flight. So cool!

We arrived back in Kathmandu and managed to change our flight to Bangkok such that we were on a lovely Thai Airways plane only a few hours later. After 10 days of being cold we were thrilled by the prospect of the heat in Thailand.

Marisa boarding the plane for Lukla

Yaks on parade

Looking down on Namche Bazaar

Part way up Gokyo Ri

On top of Gokyo Ri, Marisa with Cho Oyu (8201 meters) behind her

The big dog, Everest (8848 meters), Lhotse (8516 meters) is in the back to the right, Nupste (7879 meters) in front to the right

Savoring the moment

2009 Xmas card?

Adam, Keira, Marisa and Brian

Ngozumpa Glacier is the large gray band in the middle, this is the largest glacier in Nepal

The village of Gokyo from Gokyo Ri

Mountain cottage next to the stream (between Machemba and Dole)

Keira and Adam going down endless staircases with their guide, Binod, and porter. These staircases are also what we refer to as the "Nepali mountain switchback".

A teashop stop along the trail

Yaks supplying Everest base camp expeditions